Arches Maximus

The average tourist visiting Arches National Park knowingly sees 10 natural arches. They probably "see" another 7 or 8, but are not aware they are looking at a natural span due to perspective or whatever. Of the ones they see, many visitors will experience 2 or 3 close at hand.

Sounds like a productive visit, until you consider that there are over 2,100 identified arches within the National Park. In fact, you can view 8 from a single parking space. Drive around a bit, and you can view about 20 arches without leaving the comfort of your car. Add in a few short hiking trails, and the number doubles -- and the memories will last a lifetime.

The purpose of this web page is to help the visitor who is looking to experience a bit more of Arches National Park, and gain a deeper appreciation for its fantastic rock features. It starts with a very brief tutorial on these rock formations, then gets right into arch hunting.

Please note that the itinerary outlined below is for the average 2 night stay in Moab. It also assumes that you have rented an average car, so we won't delve into the features that require 4WD or a high clearance vehicle.

If you want to go straight to the arches, just scroll through this part.

Why so many arches here?

The answer is sandstone fins. Although length, height and width vary, a fin is a long wall of rock. The fins here began as a series of cracks in large layers of sandstone. The cracks formed because of a great concentration of salt beneath the sandstone. Both salt and sand are the remains of an ancient sea. As the salt dome collapsed, or heaved, or moved, or whatever it did, the rock cracked. Long, parallel cracks, covering many square miles of rock. Eventually the rock weathered, eroded, etc. Over time the cracks "widened" and the blocks of rock were rounded off. The remains of the cracked rock domes are the fins you see today. In the photo above you're looking at an "end-on" view of some of the fins in Arches National Park; the hikers are on top of one of the more eroded fins.

Fins are the perfect place to form an arch. Years of wind, blown sand, and water has scoured the fins. Some parts of fins are harder than others; the softer parts wear faster, and sometimes wear away completely while harder rock remains. In other fins, water seeps into the sandstone, then freezes during Moab's bitter desert winters. Water expands when it freezes, so it cracks and fragments the rock. Eventually it leaves holes in the fins. In other cases, water puddles on top of a fin wear deeper and deeper holes over the millenia; some of these "potholes" eventually tunnel down and form an arch.

The are other ways these arches have formed. In many cases, arches are formed from a combination of factors. Regardless of the specifics, it is usually some sort of force acting on soft rock.

What "counts" as an Arch?

The generally held standard is that the opening in the rock must be one square meter to count as an arch. But that's a human definition. As nature sees it, even the tiniest pinhole that goes completely through a rock is technically an arch. It may have no interest to us, but it is an arch just the same. On a global scale, all arches are infintesimal pinpricks in the earth's surface. For the purposes of this webpage, we'll go a little smaller than the one square meter standard, but we'll stick to arches that are at least interesting to look at.

Note that rock is always singular in the above definition. Two rocks leaning against each other do not form an arch. (Over time, chemical change and weathering may "fuse" the rocks together, in which case it becomes an arch -- or doesn't -- depends on who you talk to). Similarly, a larged rock wedged up by a smaller one with a resulting crawl space is not an arch. It must be a hole in solid rock where the span defies gravity. By the way, the part that defies gravity is called the lintel.

Last but not least, the "length" of the hole must be shorter than the width of the opening. If the hole is longer than it is wide, it is technically a cave, or natural tube, or natural tunnel.

What's so special about an Arch?

We'll answer that question with some more questions: How many arches are in your neighborhood? How many in your town? Your county?

For the majority of Americans, the answer is ZERO. Unless you live in certain parts of the southwest, or Kentucky, or a tiny section of Ohio, you are probably hundreds of miles from the nearest natural arch. And chances are if there is one nearby, it's the only one, and in some cases it isn't much to look at. Pheonix is the only major American city that has an arch within the city limits. The point is that arches aren't something we see every day.

Beyond their rarity, consider their beauty. Contrasting stone and space, very often "framing" the sky or some scenery beyond. It's one of the few things in our experience where we are compelled to look at an empty space -- nothingness -- and declare it beautiful. And finally, arches defy gravity. They can do something we can't: They can fly.

Please join us as we leave the National Park Service Visitor Center, drive up the hill through the Moab fault, up into the greatest concentration of natural spans on the planet...in the house of stone and light...

Photographing the Arches

Let's face it, most of us don't take photos worthy of scenic calendars. Even if you think you do, trust me, you don't. Unless you are routinely paid for your photos, you aren't taking breathtaking shots. You and I are taking vacation snapshots. So wherever possible, try to have a family member in your arch photos. It makes the photo more interesting, and perhaps more importantly, it provides a sense of scale for the photo. Consider the magnificent natural arch below after I retouched it and removed my daughter from the photo...

Now hover your mouse over the photo to undo the retouching (your browser must allow active content for this to work). You should see a young lady appear in the photo; Allison will give you a clearer picture of the actual size of the arch. Without her, the size of the arch is limited only by your imagination.

Next, try to photograph "front" and "back" whenever possible. One side is usually more appealling, or photogenic if you will. Depending on the time of day, one side will be beautifully lit for photos, while the other is in shadow. For our purposes, the "front" is whatever side you first approach the arch from.

One of the tricks the pros use is to have something other than red rock in the photo. Arches National Park has plenty of junipers, sagebrush and other interesting trees and plants. Use those where you can to "frame" your photo, or add interest.

"Seeing" the Arches

Not all arches make themselves known immediately. One prominent feature, Beanpot Arch, is passed by thousands of people every day, simply because they do not know how to spot it. If you think such-and-such an area might be an arch, move around while keeping your eyes on it. Study the background. If the background changes differently than the foreground, chances are you've got an arch. Cove of Caves Arch is another tough one to see.

Move up close. 99% of park visitors who pull into the Windows Section parking lot are unaware that the large rock alcove to the right of the North Window is actually an arch. Move under it, and you'll see sky through Biceps Arch.

Be persistent. Keep looking. I've yet to see Arch of Motion, although it is visible from the main park road, and I know where it is. Sooner or later it will give up its secret. I walked by Two Blocks Arch a couple of times before I saw it. Concentrate...let your eyes linger...look for things that aren't quite so obvious.

By the same token, don't assume that the "hole" you see in the distance is definitely an arch. A boulder in shadow -- in front of a fin bathed in sunshine -- can look exactly like an arch from a distance. A boulder leaning at an angle against a fin will reflect light differently and look like an arch from a distance. Use the same techniques mentioned above to discern if something is not an arch.

Let's Go Arch Hunting!

Now that we know what we're looking at, why we're looking at them, and our cameras are loaded with film -- er, have plenty of free memory on the card -- we're ready to go. Remember to bring plenty of water and some salty high-carb snacks with protein. (A box of Ritz Bits is perfect)

1. Park Avenue Arch

Here's your first arch after you drive up the hill from the visitors center. It's visible from the road, but most people never see it. To view it, pull into the Park Avenue trailhead parking lot. It's the first pull-out on your left hand side. Go to the left side of the lot, and look across the trailhead and up. This rock formation is next to the park road. Park Avenue Arch is a blind arch. In other words, you look right at it, and it doesn't appear to be an actual arch -- it looks like an arch shape attached to a wall of rock. Fact is it is separated from the wall behind it by less than a foot. But it is separated, and thus a true arch. You won't get near this arch, it's hanging on the side of a cliff. The span of Park Avenue Arch is less than 10'.

2. Baby Arch

The second arch you'll see is at the far end of the Park Avenue trail. As a matter of fact, as you approach the Courthouse Towers parking lot (on the right hand side as you drive along) you'll see this arch on your left. It seems to be a rather jagged hole in a large cliff, and not very impressive to most. In fact, a majority of park visitors see it, but ignore it. That's too bad, because this really is a sizable, impressive span. Baby Arch is still "young" and actively forming, hence the name. Dramatic photos can be had by getting a lot closer, however the National Park Service doesn't want you wandering off the trail and this cliff is one that actively sheds rocks.

3. Beanpot Arch

Here's another arch that's tough to see. About 7 miles from the park entrance, this is on your left as you drive north on the park road. It's high up on the cliff, and you won't see it right away. Most park visitors never do. Beanpot Arch is a pothole formation, and once you spot it, you'll wonder why nobody else sees it. It's easiest to spot in the afternoon; very difficult to see in the evening.

4. Arch of Motion

Sorry folks, no photo here. I've just never been able to spot this thing. It's near Beanpot Arch, same side of the road, by Phallic Rock. Supposedly you can see motion through it as you move around, and you can see the sky if you walk toward it. Since I don't know where it is, I've had trouble with the latter.

A little side note here, as you pass the parking lot for Balanced Rock. Across from the parking lot is an unpaved road. Until sometime in the late 1960's/early 1970's, that road was the main entrance to the park. It was a graded road, but subject to wash outs. Visiting Arches National Park was quite a formidable task for the family station wagon in the early days. Today it is only passable by four wheel drive over most of its length, and not for the faint of heart.

The area around Balanced Rock was the site of the original park visitors center, which was little more than a trailer. It was also home to author, naturalist and southwest advocate Edward Abbey during his tenure as a park ranger here.

5. Pothole Arch

So far the kids aren't very excited by the arches we've seen, and this one won't help much. You've pointed out a few odd rocks in a vast tableau of other odd rocks. The fun continues with Pothole Arch, which is located on your right hand side shortly after you turn on the side road leading to the Windows Section and the Garden of Eden. It's your first right hand turn after balanced rock parking area. Anyway, you turn down the road to the Windows section, and you'll see that the road goes down and then up again. As you go down, look up on your right. The best viewing spot is from somewhere near the bottom of the hill. Pothole Arch is -- you guessed it -- a pothole formation.

Take heart, the wicked cool arches are just ahead...

6. Turret Arch

Drive into the Windows section, bypassing Garden of Eden and going straight to the loop parking area at the end. You'll see that you're surrounded by weirdly eroded fins and arch. The kids will recognize that they aren't in Kansas anymore. Take the first available parking on the loop, heading for the Windows and Turret Arch. On the loop trail (less that a mile in total) keep right and head for Turret Arch first. Turret Arch is a double arch formation; two spans in the same rock, more or less "connected." It is relatively easy to climb up through the arch; walk along the cliff and you'll see the "back" of the arch as shown in the photo below:

7. South Window

As you walk away from Turret Arch, look ahead for the view of The Spectacles shown in this photo. The "spectacles" are comprised of the North Window (left) and the South Window (right). The big rock in the middle from this viewpoint serves as the nose. In any case, your 7th arch on this tour is the South window, which is, the arch on the right in this photo. It is a massive span, but doesn't lend itself to close up photography. If you take the short trail that leads to the base, you'll find yourself a good 30 feet below the arch. But of course, it's worth the short walk to view what is one of the longer spans in the park.

At this point there is a "primitive" loop trail that breaks off of the main short loop trail in the Windows section. If you hike the primitive loop, you can spot a few more arches, including one or two sizeable features if you know where to look. Assuming you have but a couple days to spend at Arches, I would skp this. If you do have the time, the primitive loop is definitely worth it.

8. North Window

Moving around the loop trail clockwise, you'll come to the North Window. Now I don't care who you are, this is a magnificent arch. The photo above shows how it functions as a "window." You might wonder why the two spans at Turret Arch are considered a single arch feature, yet the Spectacles are two separate arches. Visually, they aren't connected when you are close to one or the other, and there is some rock barrier on a different plane between the spans.

9. Biceps Arch

At North Window, leave the loop trail and continue to make your way northwest, moving "left" along the fin on an unmarked, informal trail. Don't tell the Park Service that you're going off the trail. I'm personally OK with going off the formal trail here, because it is easy to follow a single informal trail, and darn it, the NPS ought to run a trail past Biceps and Seagull anyway. The point is that you are trying to get "under" the large alcove rock formation about 150 yards north of North Window. It's in the same fin, and you probably saw it from the parking lot and wondered if it was an arch. It is; Biceps Arch is an alcove type arch that is also a blind arch. This photo was taken from right under the arch, which is the only way to verify that it is indeed an arch. Or you could just take our word for it.

10. Seagull Arch

Turn your attention to the left of Biceps Arch, further north in the same fin. You probably noticed this little opening before; it's called Seagull Arch in that it resembles the eye of a seagull. Like Baby Arch, it too is a relatively "youthful" formation that looks smaller than it really is due to the massive amount of rock around it.

Photo above shows the locations of Biceps and Seagull Arches in relation to the Windows.

11. Double Arch

After you're done with Seagull Arch and the rest of your exploring near Turret and the Spectacles, head for the other side of the loop parking area. The most prominent feature here is Double Arch, which I call the "moodiest" formation in Arches National Park. When the sun shines on her, Double Arch positively glows. She lights up at sunrise -- then turns mysterious at sunset. When it's overcast, Double Arch can appear dark and foreboding. It's a short walk to Double Arch, and you ought to do it. Stand under the main 144' span, then look up and try to take it all in. The size of this formation is mind-blowing. Incidentally, Double Arch is actually a triple arch -- the main span has a minor opening within the lintel.

12. Minor Arch near Double Arch

As you take in the beauty of Double Arch, look along the rock to the left of Double. The fin angles toward Parade of Elephants, and has a small arch near where the fin ends. This small opening is probably 30' or 40' high, and with some imagination you can see it as one of the elephant's eyes or something like that. It's a young fin type arch, and the opening is perhaps a couple of feet wide.

13. Minor Arch near Parade of Elephants

As you are walking back toward the parking area, with your back to Double Arch, you'll see a monolithic sandstone formation between the path and the Parade of Elephants formation. It's on your right hand side. Look for this small arch on the northwest part of that rock; you should be able to see it easily from the path.

14. Minor Arch southeast of Double Arch

You're still headed back toward the parking area, away from Double Arch. Once you've spotted the minor arch #13 above, start looking across the trail on your left for this formation. It too is 30' or so up on the side of a prominent sandstone rock formation. It is a bit further from the trail than the two previous minor arches.

15. Parade of Elephants Arch

Back at the parking area, this arch is easily visible within the Parade of Elephants, to the left of Double Arch and bordering the roadway. Parade of Elephants is another double arch. The one shown in this photo is the right hand arch; if you could look into the dark cave-like spot and turn right, you'd see the second span. Set among Turret Arch, Double Arch, and the Spectacles, Parade of Elephants has no formal path to take you to it, is located high in the fin, and thus gets little attention from visitors.

Here's an aerial view of the Double Arch area to help you locate the minor arches in the area. Because of the high volume of foot traffic and the fragility of the desert environment, I urge you to stay on the trail rather than bushwack to find additional arches in this area.

16. Cove of Caves Arch

Leaving the parking lot in the Windows section, the road curves around the Parade of Elephants formation. You'll soon see the "back" of Parade of Elephants Arch and the "back" of the smaller span at Double Arch. These will be on the right hand side as you drive away from the parking loop. The next set of features on your right is an area called the Cove of Caves. This is a large bowl shaped canyon with a number of dark indentations that look like arches in the making. As you reach the far end of the Cove of Caves, look carefully in the rocks for an arch. If you stop and look straight at the Cove, the arch is on your left. Cove of Caves Arch is a young arch, well-camouflaged because all you can see is the rock behind it. In the photo above I've retouched the opening with grey -- otherwise you wouldn't see it. If you have time, you can probably spot a few minor arches in this area, but they won't give up their hiding places easily.

17. Serpentine Arch

Leaving the Cove of Caves, look quickly up ahead at the Garden of Eden section. It's on the right hand side of the road, but more or less straight ahead of you until the road curves around it. With a keen eye you can spot Serpentine Arch from the road right after you leave Cove of Caves. If you get along side Garden of Eden, you missed it. You can't see it from the parking lot, but you can always park in the lot and take a short walk right to it. In a way, Serpentine is like a miniature version of Turret Arch; it's in the same layer of stone and it too is taller than it is wide. Like the Double Arch area, Garden of Eden will reveal a number of minor and micro arches if you're willing to spend the time.

Now head back toward the main park road, remembering to look up again at Pothole Arch when you pass it. Turn right when you reach the main road, and head down the hill. Down in Salt Valley you'll see a miniature "painted desert" on your right. The greenish cast on the hills is the result of ash from millions of years ago. Turn right toward Wolfe Ranch and the Delicate Arch trailhead. Don't bother with the Delicate Arch viewpoint -- you're going to hike to it, and bag a couple more arches in the process.

18. Frame Arch

The trail to Delicate Arch is relatively easy to follow, however, some people have trouble with it. Once you hit the slickrock, which is the large sandstone rock that appears as if you are climbing the back of a massive whale, you are about halfway. When you reach the "top" of the smooth slickrock, look for cairns leading to the left and into a dry watercourse. For some reason, the top of the slickrock is a key place for setting up misleading cairns that lead straight ahead. In any case, before you round the final fin on your approach to Delicate Arch, you see Frame Arch about 15' up in the fin on your right. Almost everyone on the trail will see it, but you'll be one of the few who know that it is called Frame Arch. If you're reasonably sure of foot you can climb up to it, but I urge you to wait for the return trip. It's called Frame Arch because it "frames" Delicate Arch, and we don't want to spoil the "oohs" and "aahs" as you round the bend and see Delicate up close for the first time. So save Frame Arch for later.

19. Echo Arch

Walking past Frame Arch, look more or less straight ahead into the canyon bowl on the left of the trail. It's fairly easy to spot Echo Arch, a prominent pothole type arch hanging over the bowl. It seems tiny from this distance, but the opening is about 20'. Echo is a beautiful arch in an incredible setting, but it positively pales in comparison to what you're about to behold...

20. Delicate Arch

You've seen travel guides, greeting cards, calendars, posters, jigsaw puzzles, and coffee table books with incredible photos of this feature. Although it's not likely to be perfectly lit and glowing red like those photos when you first round the fin and see it, I guarantee it will stop you in your tracks. Most people don't have much to say when they round that bend and behold Delicate Arch in person for the first time. Take your time here. View it from the sandstone bench, then go close to it. View it "on end." Stand next to it. Stand inside it. This is one of the wonders of the natural world, and it's your good fortune to be able to walk to it and experience it. Consider Delicate Arch for awhile, and if you think it happened without any input from God Almighty, look at it some more. The photo below will give you a better idea of the size of this thing...

Recent headlines were made in the National Parks and Climbing communities when a selfish, headline-seeking climber did the unthinkable and climbed Delicate Arch. For the slackpacker's take on this -- and what you can do about it -- please click here.

Back on the trail, be sure to scramble up the slickrock to Frame Arch. Being a typical overweight, middle-aged American, I take the easiest way up, which is from the lower right and angling up toward the span.

If you have any doubts about your abilities to get back down, don't go up. Remember that slickrock is very easy to climb up, and much harder to climb down. It's called being "rimrocked," named after the days when Moab was a cattle town and cows would find themselves high on a fin, unable to get down. It has to do with the way we climb, and the traction our feet gain on the way up versus the slippage we experience on the way down. Those rimrocked cows usually climbed up the slickrock because they could smell grasses and water on the other side. Once they got up, they'd discover it was 400' straight below them. Unable to get back down the way they came up, the cow would die, rimrocked with fresh food and water in sight. It happened all over the region, including the area now within the confines of Arches National Park.

In any event, if you are able to climb to Frame Arch, be sure and snap a shot of the classic "Frame Arch photo" with Delicate in the background, as these photographers are doing...

21. Delicate Arch Trail Petroglyphs

A short side trail leads to an excellent view of some Anasazi petroglyphs. I usually save this for the return trip from the arches.

22. Fiery Furnace Arches

Back on the main park road, the next "attraction" you will come to is the Fiery Furnace. Unless you have made prior arrangements or are participating in the ranger led program, skip this entirely. There are hundreds and hundreds of natural arches within the confines of the Fiery Furnace, but you are not allowed to look for them unless you have a special permit. I personally hiked in the Furnace before the permit requirements, and I can safely say that for the average visitor and hiker, the Devil's Garden primitive trail provides an experience that is quite similar. If you insist on visiting the Fiery Furnace, you will technically be in part of it when we visit Sand Dune Arch up ahead. You can venture in a bit from there if you so desire. Or you can enter the heart of it if you go through proper channels.

So what arch can you see? After you pass the side road to the parking area, your car will be pointed straight at the Fiery Furnace. As the road bears to the left, look into the fins on your right. There is one prominent "blind" arch midway up the fins. As you round the curve, it will be behind you. It is in fact easier to see this feature when you are driving back the other way. Otherwise, you may spot other arches if you have time to stop at one of the pull-outs and look around.

23. The Mini Spectacles

Here's another tough arch feature to spot as you drive past the Fiery Furnace. The Mini Spectacles are perhaps 70 yards from the main park road, on the right hand side (as you head north and "into" the park) somewhere after milepost 15. The odd-shaped fin they are in is parallel to the road. The Mini Spectacles don't like to be seen, so don't feel too bad if you miss them.

24. Sand Dune Arch

Here's a popular arch tucked in the fins on the northern edge of the Fiery Furnace. It's like being in a giant sandbox; great place for kids to kick their shoes off and run amok. Sand Dune is the first arch on a trail that leads to additional arches...

25. Broken Arch

Back on the trail after leaving Sand Dune and the fins, you are in an area of sagebrush that is sort of a buffer between the northern edge of the Fiery Furnace and the southern edge of the Devil's Garden. Broken Arch is up ahead in the Devil's Garden, and it is visible from the trail as well as the road. A lot of people skip this, thinking it is "broken," but it surely is not. It's a very pretty, accessible feature.

26. Magic Mystery Arch

Here's your first chance to hunt for an unmarked arch. Don't be discouraged if you don't find it right away, or even if you miss it completely. Arch spotting gets easier with experience. So let's do it!

Walking toward Broken Arch from Sand Dune Arch, you'll notice that the terrain drops away a hundred yards or so to the east of the trail (ahead and on the right side of the trail). If you happen to notice an informal trail turning right just as you reach Broken Arch, you will see that it leads over to the cliff. More importantly, it leads to Magic Mystery Arch. As you get closer to the cliff you will notice a dry waterway getting more pronounced as it approaches the cliff. This waterway likely played a role in creating Magic Mystery Arch, so some people refer to it as a natural bridge. It's an interesting formation because you're on level with the top of the arch, so it is different from everything else you've visited thus far. If you have trouble finding it, think of Broken Arch creating an imaginary line pointing east. Magic Mystery is in line with that; you almost have to head on a 90º angle from the main trail at Broken Arch to get to it. Happy Hunting!

27. Tapestry Arch

Back at Broken Arch, continue on the loop trail north, toward the Arches National Park Campground. About halfway between Broken Arch and the Campground loop road is Tapestry Arch, which is a very attractive arch. Look closely; Tapestry is a triple arch. After you've visited it, turn around and head back the way you came.

28. Skyline Arch

Back on the main park road, the parking area for Skyline Arch is just a short hop north of Sand Dune Arch. Skyline is one of the few features in the park that shows itself better from a distance than it does from up close. It is interesting to walk to, but it doesn't look anywhere near as dramatic as it does from halfway up the trail. In fact, if you just want to climb to the top of the little knoll by the parking area, you'll pretty much have it. Below is the "up close and personal" view of Skyline Arch...

29. Diamond Arch

Continuing north after viewing Skyline Arch, Diamond Arch is a "hidden" feature on the right hand side of the road as you round the curve before reaching the picnic area. People sometimes call it "the arch by the picnic area." If you round the curve and see the picnic area, you missed it. It's easiest to spot on an overcast day. Diamond Arch is about at "eye level" if you're in an SUV or minivan.

Once you pass the picnic area and the campground road, grab the first open parking space that you see. Obviously if you see one farther up, take it. These are the spaces parallel to the road on the right hand side, prior to the Devil's Garden and Landscape Arch trailhead. The main parking lot is passed the trailhead, and a lot of people drive past open spaces to reach a parking lot that is overflowing. At Devil's Garden, park wherever you can. And by the way, most of the roadside spaces are closer to the trailhead than the spaces in the parking lot proper. Do not park off pavement in this area. If you're totally unable to find a spot, park at the picnic area and walk around. Don't worry, you'll be doing plenty of walking anyway. 7.2 miles of walking, in fact...

30. Tunnel Arch

The first branch off the Landscape Arch trail leads you to Tunnel Arch and Pine Tree Arch. Both are well worth the effort. Tunnel Arch is a large pothole type formation, and a double arch at that. You might be disappointed at first that you can't get close to Tunnel Arch, but it's a lot like Skyline in that it's best viewed from a distance because it is so high up and inaccessible.

31. Pine Tree Arch

This arch in progress is just a short distance from Tunnel Arch, and definitely a must-see arch. The location of Pine Tree Arch provides some gratifying shade on a sunny day. Another interesting tidbit, Pine Tree looks taller than it is wide (at least to me anyway) but it really is wider than it is tall.

32. Landscape Arch

Rather than show you the traditional "straight-on" view, I prefer this one, which is what you see as you approach Landscape Arch. Every time I approach this arch, it takes a moment for me to realize that I'm looking at it. Like Delicate Arch, it defies logic, and I think it takes a minute to register because our brains simply don't recognize such a bizarre visual. On my first visit, I didn't "see" it at all until I arrived at the viewpoint. Unfortunately, Landscape Arch is geologically complete. Very complete, in fact. It sheds bits and chunks of rock from time to time, with a notable fall in 1990. The area under the arch is now closed, which is a shame, but necessary. Geologically speaking, it will collapse completely sometime in the next nanosecond of Earth history. That means it may last another 1,000 years -- or it may fall as you read these words today. If you do have the opportunity, visit it soon, and go to the second (closer) viewpoint, which doesn't even come nearly close enough to letting you experience the grandeur of Landscape Arch. Do not climb over the fence and approach the arch -- you will be arrested. Having seen it from below prior to the closure, I can tell you it was a mind-blowing sight. For the statistically minded, Landscape Arch "officially" measures "290.1 ± .8 feet [span], a height of 77.5 ± .5 feet, a width of 18.0 ± .5 feet, a [minimum] thickness of 6 feet, and an opening breadth of 295 feet" according to Jay Wilbur, an internationally-recognized arch expert extraordinaire. Wilbur and a group of volunteers (his family) measured it using a state-of-the-art laser measurement system on behalf of The Natural Arch and Bridge Society with special permission from the National Park Service. You may find literature that lists the span of Landscape Arch at 306', but that is not a measurement using the parameters accepted by NABS. No matter how you measure it, Landscape is presently the second largest known natural span on the planet. The largest is Kolob Arch in Zion National Park, estimated to be somewhere around 310'. From the viewpoint you may notice a smaller arch high up on a fin to the right of Landscape. That is Partition Arch, which we will visit shortly.

33. Wall Arch

The Devil's Garden Trail begins immediately after Landscape Arch. Follow the left branch of the trail; signage indicates that it is the trail to Double-O Arch. You'll begin climbing through a couple of fins, and will arrive at Wall Arch very quickly. It's on your right -- don't miss it. Some people walk right by it without seeing it! Relax, you've got a long hike ahead of you. Take your time, be observant. Wall Arch is fun to get up close and walk through, a refreshing change after Landscape Arch. Here's the view from the "back" of Wall Arch:

34. Partition Arch

A few minutes after Wall Arch, a short side trail branches off to the left for Navajo and Partition Arch. I like to visit Navajo first, saving the more scenic Partition Arch for the return. But almost everybody goes to Partition first, so we'll do the same. Remember the view from below? When you reach Partition, it looks quite different from "behind." It's a double arch, and provides a stunning view of Devil's Garden and the La Sal Mountains beyond. Be careful here, Partition is high on a fin, it drops sharply beyond the opening and a slip will be fatal. The photo above is the main opening; the second smaller opening is shown below.

35. Navajo Arch

Continuing on the side trail, Navajo Arch is found after an easy walk along a low fin. Because the lintel (the rock above the opening) is so high, some people aren't very impressed by Navajo Arch. This doesn't mean you should pass it up; other people say it is their favorite in Devil's Garden because of its cozy, cave-like setting. Above is the "front" view, from slightly past the arch; below is the "back" view if you walk through Navajo Arch.

36. Black Arch

Back on the main Devils Garden Primitive Trail, the next highlight is a side trail that leads to a viewpoint of Black Arch. I recommend doing this, just in case you can't find Black Arch later on when the trail goes by. I've only seen Black Arch from the viewpoint, because I'm too tired to hunt it down later in the hike. I've tried, but footprints run amok, directions aren't precise...so I settle for the viewpoint.

37. Minor Pillar Type Arch

One of the highlights of the trail to Double-O Arch is that you will go up and walk along the top of a fin for a hundred yards or so. If you have a serious fear of heights, this section of the trail will freak you out, no question. But be assured that it is a wide, relatively flat fin as fin tops go. As you leave the fin, the trail bears left, sort of at a 90º angle to the fin you walked along. After awhile it bears right, with a large jumble of slickrock straight ahead and on your left. The trail then sort of goes down the side of a fin. As you bear right, look at the jumble of slickrock for an oddly eroded section that may or may not have a rock cairn on top of it. People maintain the cairn so that you can find this arch, which is perhaps one square meter. You have to walk up to it and look at it from the side to get the view shown above.

38. Double-O Arch

The view above is approaching Double-O along the trail. It is two "O" shaped openings, one above the other. The smaller opening is not so obvious in the above photo, but it is there just over Sandy's head (she's in yellow). We're still about 100 feet from the arch in the above photo. Imediately below is a view of the lower span. Looking north is a well-known rock feature called Dark Angel, which looks like a giant black pillar. You can see it through the lower span at this angle.

The classic photo of Double O is to climb up through the lower span, then turn left and climb up and around the steep natural bowl. Snap your photo from above, and be sure to have a person framed in the lower span to lend perspective. The photo angle is shown below:

39. Shadow Box Arch

Continuing along the primitive trail after Double O Arch, you'll immediately start to wind your way down into the canyon floor. Double O will be at your back. Look up, straight ahead -- Shadow Box Arch is hard to see, but if you scan the upper part of the fin, you'll see it. Eventually you'll be at the base of this fin, and the fin will be on your right. You can also see Shadow Box Arch as you approach Double Arch earlier in your hike; just as Double-O comes into view, Shadow Box is down below on your right, which is where this photo was taken. I've retouched the opening in grey so that you can see it more easily.

40. Mocking Arch

Once you pass the fin that contains Shadow Box Arch, you will find yourself with numerous fins and passages on both sides of the trail. There are arches to be found all over this area, but they are not easy to get to. One of the first openings on the left after the Shadow Box fin is rather narrow, with a large rock on the right hand side of the opening. You have to stuff yourself through some low trees, then scramble up the slot. You're looking for Hidden Arch, but you if you're like me, you picked this slot incorrectly and all you find is this minor pillar arch that seems almost like a pair of mocking eyes...mocking you because you're stumbling around in the thick brush looking for an arch, and you aren't even in the right place. So turn around and go back. I doubt Mocking Arch is the correct name for this feature, but it's definitely the most appropriate.

41. Hidden Arch

After a few false leads, you find the correct slot on the left of the trail. It's immediately after a right and a left side fin that extend so much that they almost "pinch" the trail. It's only a slot or two after the false lead that took you to Mocking Arch. It's full of scrub brush and pinyon pines and all sorts of bushes. If you study the ground, you'll see evidence of many people who've gone before you. Enter the slot. You can see that it goes up hill, and the slot clearly reaches the top of the right side fin. It's not easy to get up this hill. You have to climb over roots, that sort of thing. Once you're over the hump, the sand bumbles along for awhile, then goes down hill. If you're wondering why you're hiking in this no-man's land, take heart, you're almost there. Hidden Arch is up above on your left. It's a big, beautiful fin-type arch. If you're like me, you'll figure that you can climb up the slickrock to get to it, but then you'll start to slip and slide on your return. I don't recommend it. I fell, and managed enough friction to pin myself to the slickrock before it dropped off into the slot canyon below the arch. It came at the expense of my skin, but it was better than the alternative. The photo here was taken from a safe spot. I was fortunate to even find this arch, so I shouldn't have pushed the issue by trying to get inside it. It should take about five minutes to get to Hidden Arch from the main primitive trail. Good luck.

42. Top Story window

You'll see this up ahead and slightly to the left as you continue along the Devil's Garden Primitive Trail. It's not the most interesting formation in the park, but you'll want to check it off on your list. No need to hike closer to it, unless you really want to.

43. Private Arch

A clearly marked side trail branches off to the right and leads to two arches, although very few people ever see the second arch. Most are only aware of this arch, which is called Private Arch. For a long time, only one guy was aware of this arch. He found it during a lengthy exploration of Devil's Garden, and kept it to himself for awhile as his "private" arch. Eventually word got around, a couple more folks stumbled on it, but the name stuck. The photo above is the front view if you walk past the arch; the photo below is the view if you walk down through it and turn around.

44. Two Blocks Arch

As you walk back toward the main trail from Private Arch, keep looking up on the left for Two Blocks Arch. You'll start to see it when it looks like this. Most people never see this, because they are too busy looking at cracks and other interesting rock features along the trail. To complicate matters, when the entire arch comes into view, you can no longer see light through it. But you can see the two blocks of rock it is named for, as shown in the close-up photo below.

A word to the weary. At this point, you've seen all but one of the arches you're likely to find along the trail, the last one being Box Arch. The trail heads downhill after Private Arch and Two Blocks Arch, and you'll think you've got it made. You don't. The trail ahead is spectacular, beautiful, other-worldly. It's also difficult and dangerous. If you have small children, you don't want to do this part of the trail. If you were petrified while hiking over the fin earlier on the trail, you don't want to continue around, trust me. If it's raining, you don't want to do this part of the trail. If you aren't good at trail finding, turn around. Head back toward Double O. If you continue, you'll have to scramble down some slickrock, wind your way along a streambed. Again, it is beautiful, spectacular, breath-taking. Do it if you can, but don't try it if you have any doubts.

45. Box Arch

The last feature on the Devil's Garden Primitive Loop that's reasonably easy to find is Box Arch. After you make the semi-treacherous climb down into the canyon, Box Arch is off on your right. It's low, sometimes hard to spot. Once you hit the canyon floor, the trail turns left and follows the stream bed. If you start down the stream bed, you went too far to see Box Arch.

Addendum

As mentioned above, there are many more arches to be seen if you have a 4-wheel-drive, or if you sign up for the ranger-led tour of Fiery Furnace, or if you are willing to explore "off-trail."

If you've visited the arches outlined above and you have more time on your hands and want to seek out more, you might consider visiting some of the prominent spans in the Moab region outside of Arches National Park. Here are a few for your consideration:

• Corona Arch and Bowtie Arch a 1-mile trail off Potash Road leads to these two spectacular arches. The hike also provides a view of Pinto Arch and some micro arches here and there. Corona Arch is arguably one of the most stunning arches in the world. A short drive beyond these two arches is Jug Handle Arch, visible right from Potash Road.
• Funnel Arch is not far off Kane Creek Blvd, but it is a bit of an adventure to get to. Unless you're capable of some rudimentary rock climbing, don't try this one. My daughters did it with no problem, but my lovely wife Sandy felt it was too difficult and turned around. Know your limits, and please don't take chances or risks if you aren't sure of things. A lot of people have asked for maps to find Funnel Arch. I put a couple of Google Earth map type things below. This is on the extension of Kane Creek Blvd out of Moab. If you can follow Kane Creek Blvd and figure out where this is (it's not that hard) then go for it. Remember, all of this is at your own risk.
• Wilson Arch and Looking Glass Rock are south of Moab near La Sal Junction. These are spectacular features, well worth a visit. The gravel road to Looking Glass Rock is just a bit north of Wilson Arch on the opposite side of the highway, and can be negotiated by a regular passenger car without trouble. Both arches have settings much different from those in Arches National Park; sometimes I think they are even more interesting than those in the park.

Above images provide an approximate idea of how to find Funnel Arch. The top image shows where to park along Kane Creek Rd., and the bottom is a sort of "3-D" view that more or less shows a route to the arch. Once you make it up the crack in the cliff, you've pretty much got it made.

One last suggestion...

You're welcome to print this long page and take it with you, but be warned that there is no substitute for having a decent guidebook to direct your footsteps. I happen to really like Jerome & Suzy Malitz' Arches National Park Dayhiker's Guide. Now, some folks have criticized this book because it offers alternative routes on some hikes that can be confusing...which I must admit is the very reason I like this book! Not for the confusion -- for the alternatives. Anyway, you don't have to try the alternatives, I just like them because it adds a little spice to trails I've been on many times. If you just want to stick to the regular trails, this book is fantastic, a must-have.

It's important to know that the really popular book out there, Hiking Canyonlands and Arches National Park by Bill Schneider, is loaded with inaccuracies. He'll have you looking on the wrong side of the road for Pothole Arch for starters; not sure how you miss that. Also has some features listed with the wrong name, wrong distances...I almost wonder if he's ever been there. You'll see that book everywhere, but be warned.

When I visit Arches National Park I carry Chris Moore's Guide to the Natural Arches of Arches National Park in my back pocket. It's not the most glamorous publication, but it is an excellent, concise guide to the arches above and quite a few others. I suggest it also because the two authors, Chris Moore and John Remakel, are both noted experts in the Natural Arch and Bridge Society. Chris has dedicated a lot of time to studying and publishing arch information, so I suggest supporting his efforts. Unfortunately the book is out of print and the people who are selling it through Amazon.com sometimes charge outrageous prices. Beware of this...the link is here: Chris Moore's Guide to the Natural Arches of Arches National Park, but if it's more than $15-$20, pass on it. If it's back in print and Amazon is selling it for the proper $10 price, it's a "must-have."

Happy Arch Hunting!